Iceland is a hot bed -- literally -- of activity. Just under the green crust of the earth, magma rumbles in volcanoes and boiling water bursts through
cracks in the rock to form scalding fountains. The area of the world's oldest known geyser is appropriately named "Geysir," the Icelandic word
for "erupt."

The ground is like a sieve, punctured with seething holes. There are few barriers to keep tourists at a distance. Simple hand-lettered signs glued to rocks warn that the water boils at more than 200º F. (OSHA would croak!)

Steam fogs your camera, clears your nose, and leaves clothes as wet as though there had been rain.

The area's namesake, the famous Geysir geyser (Or is it geyser Geysir?) is a bust. It's no longer considered active; it's eruptions are unpredictable and years apart.

However, just across the path puddled with spots of scalding water, the Strokkur geyser has picked up the mantle and accepted the challenge to match -- or best -- America's Old Faithful. Strokkur erupts sporadically, but seldom more than 5 to 7 minutes apart. And, indeed, it spews water to heights that rival Old Faithful. But set in the more remote Haukadalur Valley with few human structures nearby and the sky roiling with the black clouds of an impending storm, Strokkur is far more impressive!

But the geysers are more than something to look at ... the geothermal basin that covers most of Iceland also provides clean, cheap heat and and electric power for most of the country. And in the cold night air when unseen cracks in the hillsides hiss with steam, you can relax at your remote B & B with a long soak in the sulphurous waters of a geyser-fed hot tub ! Swim suits optional !

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